Principessa Laudomia
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 1998
Look 29 in the Fall-Winter 1998 collection was an ensemble composed of a short dinner dress worn under a cropped coat. Each of the elements in this outfit included an abundance of historical and cultural references.
Asia was one of the main references for both dress and coat. On this continent, and particularly in China, the colors and symbols featured on a garment have meaning and their use is highly codified.
Here, John Galliano used two strong colors. Yellow, the imperial color, and a “peppery” red, an auspicious color.
The symbols embroidered on the dress and the coat were also borrowed from the Asian decorative repertoire: this included the “lishui” wave motif, which usually appears on traditional dragon robes, as well as the cloud decor. The fauna and flora typically found on Chinese clothing were also depicted. This included the dragon, which symbolizes power and authority.
The coat was trimmed with sable, reminiscent of traditional Central Asian garments trimmed with fur to help face the steppes.
However, the cut of the coat, with broad shoulders, was also reminiscent of men’s English court fashion during the reign of Henry VIII (1491–1547).
A significant emphasis was also given to accessories, and in particular the large necklaces. Imposing tassels were also added, creating the effect of a pectoral armure.
These articulated collars were once again reminiscent of Renaissance fashion, as was more specifically the ruff worn around the neck.
© Laziz Hamani ; © Guy Marineau
