The models’ dressing room was close to the two presentation salons, to which it was connected by a small vestibule. It had replaced the former dining room of the hôtel particulier, and was fitted with a mezzanine to accommodate the 180 or so different outfits that would be shown.

One of the particularities of Haute Couture, when it first emerged in the 1860s, was the “girls”, who would model the designs to present them to the clients. Known as “sosies”, or look-alikes, these ancestors of the fashion model were chosen to represent different female body types. Christian Dior’s “cabine” – his team of models – was composed of 12 models chosen by the couturier, whose personalities matched the silhouette that they had to bring to life. “Each cabine must bring together different types of women, who together compose the ideal image we have formed of the client,” Christian Dior explained in his memoirs.

During “la pose” – the fitting period, which happened in the month leading up to the show – the models, dressed in white shifts, were constantly called into the workshops to try on the toiles, and then the prototypes made in fabric.

On the day of the show, this small space was crammed with “Madame Marguerite, ten dressers, all the head seamstresses and the tailors, three hairdressers, my two closest colleagues, and, naturally, the ‘girls’ themselves,” as well as the cheffe de cabine, Yvonne de Turckheim, the couturier recalled. The prototypes – some arriving at the very last minute – were hung in the wardrobes attributed to each of the 12 models. The references and descriptions of the 18 to 20 outfits they were to wear were inscribed on a card for the benefit of the dresser, as well as details of the relevant accessories.

The models were the best ambassadors for the collection. While retaining an air of mystery, “they must vanquish and convince, present and impress with the new fashion,” Christian Dior pronounced. They were also the center of attention for the photographers, who took shots of the designs for the House itself or for the prestigious fashion magazines.

Once or twice a year, the sales director, Madame Luling, organized presentations of the collection all over the world. Eight models would set off for Japan, Greece, England, or South America, accompanied by four dressers.